Directional Interaction Of Sewing Thread Linear Density And Fabric Orientation On Seam Performance Of Lightweight Cotton Interlock Fabrics

Abstract

Seam performance plays a critical role in the durability of knitted garments, particularly in lightweight fabrics. The margin between seam failure and fabric rupture is minimal. This study is to understand the interaction between sewing thread linear density and fabric direction on seam strength and seam efficiency of a lightweight cotton interlock fabric. Seams were constructed using a superimposed seam with stitch class 401 at a stitch density of 12 stitches per inch, using polyester sewing threads of 40 Tex and 60 Tex. Seam performance was evaluated in both wale and course directions and interpreted in relation to the fabric’s structural and mechanical properties, including tensile and tear strength. A two-factor factorial design was adopted, and statistical analysis was performed using two-way ANOVA with interaction and interaction-based linear regression. Results reveal a significant interaction between thread linear density and fabric direction. Increasing thread linear density improved seam strength and seam efficiency in the wale direction, whereas it had the opposite effect in the course direction. The findings highlight the importance of direction-specific seam engineering for lightweight knitted garment manufacturing.